our first view of Mont. St. Michel

Our first view....from the bus...breathtaking and unbelievable.

700 steps

An early morning again. Up at 0500 to catch the train to Mont St. Michel. Much easier this time as it is just an overnight. We have packed in Neecie’s backpack on wheels and my duffle bag. The train leaves from Montparnasse station which is an easy Metro ride from our station at Denfert-Rochereau. The TGV station and track are easy to find and we are on our train by 0715 and leave promptly at 0730. We have a sheltered 4 person table and only the3 of us to share it so we spread out. We even have an electric plug to charge our computers! (I love these trains in Europe! They are wonderful!)

I have read about Mont St. Michel and I doubt that I will be able to go to the top. Too many stairs and an arduous climb but I am sure that I will find lots to do while Susie and Neecie explore.

The countryside we pass through reminds me of the Midwest...some flat fields and then gently rolling hills. The only thing that is missing is the corn fields.

June 12, Saturday--from Neece, Number 10

I’m trying to write a re-cap of our earlier travels and days where we were too busy to post anything, and I will return to that and post on here when I get the chance. But first, we are on the train returning to Paris from Mont St. Michel, so I will write about that visit first. What an awesome fairy-tale place. It’s on a small rocky island off the coast of Brittany and Normandy, near St. Malo of WW2 fame. Not needing to rob notice from any place near, it rises like something unearthly almost, into the sky with a church spire at its highest point and a gilded St. Michael standing in dominion over both the church and some devil--whether it is Lucifer or a sea monster, or if the two are blurred by time & preference into one creature. At any rate, Michael stands in dominion, not quite like an archangel, looking more like a chevalier (a knight). Beneath him and below him rests the church and the Abbey, and below that a village consisting of one Steep main street, and many back alleys, and steps everywhere! You’d think the place was designed by Stairmaster. Don’t know how many steps we climbed to get into the Abbey but it was a lot. (Katie said she’d read it was 700 or more.) We checked into our hotel and Katie and Ange crashed for a rest. Our hotel room was really charming, out the front door, up the street, up some steps, up another alley, a few more steps to a wooden door with a small window; it felt like we were entering a hobbit house. Being restless, I headed out for the Abbey, climbed more steps, explored the upper terrace outside the church, then the church, the beautiful cloister, refectory, down some steps to guests’ hall, a crypt or two, and emerged into the one essential nod to modernity: the Gift Shop. Did not see a monk anywhere so had a hard time believing there was a religious community there as the guide had said. I did discover that Vespers was at 6:30, so I resolved to return then. Back at the hobbit house, Katie and Sue were stirring and I told them about the steps. Katie was determined to go, so she swallowed half a Vicodin and set off with Susie, while I stayed behind to do some business with the hotel concierge, then followed trying to catch up. By the time I climbed the 700 steps a second time, my knees were hurting and I was wondering where the other half of the Vicodin was. Found K. and Ange, asked if they wanted to stay for Vespers and they agreed to that. The abbey worker who was shooing everyone out toward the exit path said we could stay but one of the monks would have to let us out the front way, back down the 700 steps to a locked gate. Vespers was awesome. There is indeed a religious community there of both men and women; about 6 men and 8 women sang Vespers. Rather than traditional monk stalls they had prayer rugs and small stools arranged around the altar. Other than their chant, the only sound was a hard rain beating on the church roof. Afterward, one of the women monks led us outside and down the wet stone steps in the rain to the gate that she unlocked and locked again. It felt very medieval and like we’d fallen into the set for The Name of the Rose.

After a short rest and a dry off in the room, we ventured out to eat. The tides had come in and we looked for a restaurant with an overlook. With an appetite engendered by 700 steps we ordered: mussels, fish soup, and a sampler plate of fruit of the sea (snails, mussel, oysters, shrimp, and langoustines). The mussels made me full but those were only the entrees. We then got the main plates: sea bass, scallops St. Jacques, and leg of lamb. All yummy. I passed on dessert but shared with Katie and Ange: Katie got apple sorbet with Calvados (apple brandy) which we did not like (the ruination of a good apple), and Ange got a Normandy apple pancake--delicious! And, of course, good rich coffee. We watched the tide roll out; that was almost (but not quite) as cool as the beautiful acappella chant at Vespers. Today we explored more, attended some museums and had the requisite omelette at the oldest restaurant on the island, La Mere Poullard. It was good, but overpriced, paying for history and reputation I guess, but in general a practice against my religion. Then we explored more on the ramparts, took another 700 pictures (one for each step) and caught the bus to Dol de Bretagne, where we caught this train to Paris. Just stopped in LeMans and now we have one hour until we arrive at Gare Montparnasse. Only 2 more nights in Paris and one day and then home. It’s been so lovely and, except for Switzerland, going to Mont St. Michel has been the loveliest of all. Bon nuit, mes amis.

Rainy day in Paris. Went to the Gard de Nord ( train station) to p/u Neecies' penpal, Genevieve, who came over from England and to reserve a trip tomorrow for me and Katie to Versailles... Neece will stay and visit with her friend then, from a cafe, watch people go by. Also made reservations for Friday for us all 3 to go to Mount San Michel on the coast for an overnight visit.

Katie and I walked home very slowly looking at things (food mostly) in the open air markets on the street by our apartment. I will definitely miss all the foods in Paris. Today I tried another "new" food (for me) Gorgonzola Cheese! It was good. We also had brie and gruyere cheese...it was all good!

The time is now going too fast and soon our trip will be over, but we will have the pictures, our diaries and this blog to help us to remember it all. Well, off to p/u Genevieve from her hotel and out for crepes for supper. Au revoir for now, mon amis.

Normandie Taps

on its side.... but very moving.....the people of Europe have not forgotten..they remember all the help they received...from all the countries, not just America.

http://www.facebook.com/video/editvideo.php?v=405659443953

Some photos of Arles and the Pompidou Center

back in Paris

These are the keys to our apartment and there is a spiral staircase with 37 steps before we can use them on our door. (The larger key actually is for the armoire in the bedroom but I like the looks of them together.)

We slept late because we were tired out from hauling the suitcases through the train station, the metro and up and down all the stairs. Susie/Ange and Neecie had to do most of the work of carrying those cases up those 37 stairs and they had such an energetic morning with their bike ride that bedtime could hardly wait.

But that was yesterday...today we spent a lazy morning doing laundry and eating bread and jam and coffee. Strolled over to the Montparnase Cimeterie and paid our respects to Simone de Beauvoir and Jean Paul Sarte, Jean Seeburg and Constantin Brancusi, the sculptor.   Took the Metro down to the old Jewish section to show Susie what it is like. Forgot that today is the Jewish sabbath so the place we wanted to eat was closed, then walked to the Jewish Museum and it too was closed and then walked to the Picasso museum and .....yes, it was closed also. We did get to eat in the Jewish quarter...at an Eastern European shop and shared a lunch of pastrami sandwich, potato latke and a small aubergine and roasted pepper pizza. Ummm Delicious!

Rather than go home we went on to the Pompidou Center...that is a fantastic building.  All the electrical, plumbing and supports are visible on the outside of the building..it looks as if it was turned inside out! We toured the modern art museum located inside but I think what I will remember is the view from the top overlooking Paris and the patio areas below.  The grounds seem as if they are a meeting place for young people to sit on the bricks (!) and are entertained by musicians, mimes and all sorts of entertainers.  We sat in a sidewalk cafe and had a beer...so good after such a hot day and a hot walk.  Amstel (no alcohol) is darn good.
Home on the Metro, stop at Monoprix for groceries and then home again.  Bread and cheese for supper....that sounds as if we didn't have a lot but it is so satisfying, so good!
Katie

photos

I thought the comments that I made about the photos would show but they didn't. The first is the 3 of us on a road above Sembrancher with the village spread out below. The second photo is of our cousin Rene-Marc who, along with his brother Dodo, squired us around Valais. It is raining today in Paris so maybe I will be able to get more photos and an update to the blog done. Still one week to go here....doesn't seem long enough.

Correction...

The Yellow House was bombed and destroyed in 1944 not 1844...typo. That's what you get for typing when you are very tired.

We slept late this AM...didn't get up until after 08-0830. Neecie was a sweetie and ran out and got coffee so that we could have a leisurely petit Petit déjeuner (breakfast) of bread, jam, fruit and coffee. Have to do laundry before we can do much else (clean undies required for Paris). Looking at the Ribordy book with its photos of Sembrancher and places that we have visited. I love thinking about Switzerland and picturing it in my mind's eye....it is so beautiful.

Our day is not planned as yet. Hope to meet up with Larry and Jennifer but if not we will take Susie to the old Jewish section for falafel and schwarma.

Sunny and clear blue skies here..life is good.

Back in Paris

We arrived back in Paris this evening around 7:30. The TGV train from Avignon made the trip in less than 3 hours (465 miles). If it hasn't been said here before I have to say that the train system in Europe is absolutely wonderful! Fast clean trains, smooth rides, tables between the seats so you can share a lunch or a game or spread out your work...and relatively inexpensive too.

We spent 2 nights in Avignon and toured the Palace of the Popes and walked and walked around the old walled city. Then we took the local train to Arles in Provence where Van Gogh spent the last 2 Years of his life. It is also an old city with a Roman ampitheatre and Antique Theater (outdoor) stadium. Both of those ancient venues are used even today. There are bull fights in the coliseum and music performances in the stadium. Arles is a quiet country town with lots to see. We followed the trail of Vincent using a book on his life and paintings that was a map of all the places where he did his famous paintings. Last night we ate at the "Night Cafe" which is still recognizable today. The "Yellow House" was destroyed by bombs in 1844 but the bridge and adjoining houses remain there as they were in his time. Today Susie and Neecie rented bicycles and rode out to find the bridge on the canal but were not successful. They had a good time manuvering through narrow streets and over the cobblestones although Sue later took a spill on a gravel road. They successfully navigated the round-a-bout even though they had to go around twice to find the right exit. I walked through the residential parts of the city to the old wall and ramparts and visited the Cimeterie. I love to walk and watch the people of the city going about their regular daily lives away from the tourist routes. The building are fascinating with gaily painted shutters; blue, magenta, red, green, and flowers cascading from the window boxes. I liked Arles better than Avignon...quieter, less rushed and busy.

We came back to Paris with 2 more suitcases than when we left but we blame that on the fact that the handle broke on our biggest and made it difficult to carry with all our many treasures. Of course if you have 2 new suitcases what should you do but fill them up? and that is what we tried to do finding lots of interesting and pretty gifts, for ourselves and for others.

We ate on the train home...aubergine caviar, anchovy dip, smoked salmon, creamy cheese, carrots, pears and apricots and always the wonderful crusty bread of this country. YUM YUM

Tomorrow we hope to meet up with our nephew and his family and then.....more adventures! (After we do our laundry of course)

Katie

leaving Sembrancher and Valais

This morning we must leave this beautiful and historic valley of our ancestor Gaspard Nicholas Ribordy. We have had an extraordinary visit seeing the residences that our grandfathers and relatives built beginning in the late 1600s and still being used today. We have wandered the streets of the village of Sembrancher and explored the passages and attics, worshipped at the church and visited the graveyard where many of our relatives are buried. We have explored a medieval castle of the Duke of Savoy with the neck chain attached to the post in the dank prison chamber. Byron wrote of the prisoner who spent 6 years here in the Castle of Chillon and added his name to the graffiti on the wall near the sketch made by another prisoner in 1545. We have marveled at the height of the mountains and the villages and towns on those slopes. We have driven to Verbier, the Swiss Aspen and watched the paragliders practice over the valley 2000 meters below. We have walked in a Roman ampitheatre from the 2nd century that is used today for the cow fights in springtime. We have taken hundreds of photos that will not be able to capture the beauty of this place. Nor can we capture in photos the kindness, generosity and friendliness of our cousins Rene and Dodo. They have made us feel that we not only are family, we are close family. They are simply fantastic men as well as their families.

We leave today for southern France. For me, a part of me will always remain here in this beautiful country with these exceptional people.

Try to write more tonight.

Switzerland! Unbelievable

I am looking from my hotel room out at a rushing mountain stream gushing down the slope over the rocks. The sound is loud enough to come through the closed casement windows and soothe me while I sleep. The mountains surrounding the valley of our ancestors are steep and high with villages and vineyards adorning their slopes. One village at Reddes is so high up that it requires a cable car to ascend although our cousin Rene tells us that before the cable that of course people walked those steep slopes.

We are off to church this morning where our great grandfather attended before he left this beautiful valley in 1858 for a new life in America. We have been so busy that we have been unable to post but hope that we can add more and photos by tonight.

Au revoir for now.

#7 katie

Sunday the 23rd and Monday the 24th

Monday: May 24

Yesterday was Sunday and we went straight off (as much as we are able) to the Gare du Lyon, where we bought our rail passes and made our reservation for Switzerland and to Avignon as well. From there we traveled triumphantly to the Musee d’Orsay and the impressionists.

What a lovely collection. There was a special exhibit on Crime & Punishment that displayed paintings around that theme, including Jacques Louis David’s, The Death of Marat. It was quite impressive. There was another exhibit of Gaugin & Van Gogh which was very cool as well. Another collection of impressionists and post-impressionists gave us access to rosy-cheeked Renoirs and his pastel depictions, some lovely Cezannes and Degas, many others. We broke for lunch @ 3:30 but Katie made us go see first Millet’s The Gleaners because Mom had the reproduction hanging in the house in Sterling. After our late lunch we parted ways: Kate and Ange stayed til closing time at 6 pm. I took off walking toward Notre Dame to go to church, and they finished their day picking up a boat ride on the Seine that made several stops and allowed them to hop off to view several sights, including Notre Dame, the Eiffel Tower, and the Musee d’Orsay. The Eiffel Tower was big and included a new sight for us: machine gun toting soldiers who patrol the tourist sites and train stations. Katie snapped a picture of a few at the Eiffel Tower. Meanwhile, I went home to a small supper of bread, cheese and pate. They got home at 930 and we were in bed by 11:00. Today, Monday, is a day off from art with a trip to Paris’ biggest Flea Market and some souvenir shopping.

Later: We saw less than 10% of the flea market but enough. In addition to the waves of t-shirts, shoes, hats, jeans, there was also antique furniture, fireplaces, and estate sale knick-knacks. We stopped for lunch mainly so we could use the toilette and enjoyed shared appetizers: nicoise salad, pickled herring, and pate of the country, and a big bottle of Evian water. There was a singer in the restaurant singing cabaret songs from the 1950s and had a joie de vivre combination of Mickie and Edith Piaf. After each set of songs, she roamed the restaurant and if you hadn’t given any donation yet, she plopped her basket on the table in front of you and waited. We sat next to some people from Latvia who were surprised that 3 Americans knew where Riga was (and that it was in Latvia). Guess we don’t have a world-wide reputation for global or geographic awareness. After the flea market, we journeyed to Sacre Coeur, the huge basilica on the top of Montmartre. It was enormously hot (but little humidity) and we spent the money to take the funicular tram to the top. Great views of Paris. Small narrow streets with cobblestones and little shops, very French looking. Finally home by 8:25 to make a big salad with some chicken we picked up at the Asian deli. After walking 4.5 miles, we had hearty appetites and sore knees, but happy hearts.

Today we plan to climb the towers of Notre Dame (or seek an elevator for Katie so she can come too), explore the island of Cite, as well as get ice cream at the famous ice cream place on the more peaceful island of St. Louis, sit by the river and eat ice cream, then trek across the river to take Ange to the restaurant high on the hill near the Pantheon, Les Fetes Gallantes, where we had such a wonderful meal. It looks like another hot day, but the city charms us with all this sunshine.

today the 24th

off to the biggest flea market in Paris....no time to post for our great day yesterday. I had to remove the photos of Susie's arrival but now I know how to post within the story so the photo doesn't take up much room. Here is just the beginning of our day yesterday...will add more later.

Ange, Art, Etc May 21-22

Today we are up early and getting ready for a trip all the way across Paris, back to the Gare de Lyon for train tickets to Switzerland. Then plan on Musee d’Orsay and a Seine river boat ride and maybe Notre Dame as well. Will be a busy day. Neecie says we walked six miles yesterday. (Number 7--Katie)

We are rapidly losing time it seems. Getting this blog written and posted each day gets tricky sometimes. Thanks for being patient. A quick recap: Thursday Katie and I went to the Louvre, out for lunch to the Polish restaurant in the catacombs of a church nearby where we had tried earlier in the week with no luck. Good meal of Kielbaska and sauerkraut (very different from that of the US). Then back to the Louvre where Katie dragged me from room to room as I slowly collapsed into a heap of art-drugged (and the Polish beer from lunch) somnolescence.

Friday: We rose early and at 7 am took the suburban train to CDG airport to meet Ange. Had to walk a good distance from the train station into the AA arrivals gate, greeting Ange with smiles and hugs all around. After a brief stop at a cafe for 2 coffees and a tea ($11.00 imagine!) we walked back to the train and returned to the city, taking 4 hours. (Ange’s one way train ticket cost the same as the 2 coffees and the tea--but I’m not complaining mind you.) The walk down the market street produced more fresh fruit and veggies for Ange. In the apartment, we made her a fresh salad, unpacked, then finally let her lie down @ 2 pm. Katie and I went out, looked in a hardware store at a bag/purse to hold my iPad, got a Diet Coke at the supermarket, and walked about 3/4 mile to Le Boutique, a shop next to a monastery that sold goods handmade by monastic orders all around France. Katie was enthralled with the hand and machine sewing and the lace and baskets and one special room that held antique goods: lace collars, chemises, aprons, underwear (those were coton). Spent at least an hour there. Home again. Coffee, coke & beer at the sidewalk cafe across the street from the apt. Later dinner at our local favorite restaurant--Bistro of the Penguins, with yummy gazpacho and a quiche extreme. Bed at 9:30.

Saturday: The best laid plans go awry at times. Began the day going to Montparnasse train station to buy the rail passes and reserve the train to Switzerland, but ran amok. They did not sell those passes there and said only at Gare du Lyon, and take the #91 bus there. So we did, 30 minute trip. Wandered to the train ticket place, faced long lines, decided we try the tourism office, got sent to train information, which sent us back to the long lines. Stood in line 1 hour, got to the window, asked about the rail passes and the woman said she needed to see our passports. Two of the three of us had ours, but Ange had left hers behind. We turned away, empty handed, with the resolve to return in the morning and get what we wanted come what may. By then it was 2:30 and we were on the other side of Paris from our intended goal of the Musee d’Orsay (impressionist paintings), but we were close to Pere Lachaise Cemetery, so we decided to change plans and go there. Found a cafe across the street from the walled cemetery for lunch. Ange got a salad Nicoise that was admired by all: greens, tuna, anchovies (her first time to try anchovies) green beans, olives, hard boiled eggs. Katie and I got ordinary things, omelet, sandwich.

After that lunch (we would not eat dinner) we entered the cemetery, in search primarily of 2 graves: Jim Morrison and Abelard & Heloise. The cemetery is Stuffed with tombs and crypts. Many well known folks are buried there, including these: Collette, Rossini (Figaro, Figaro, Figaro... I sang and Katie shrank away), Bellini, Chopin, Gericault, the beautiful crypt/memorial to the star-crossed lovers of the Middle Ages, Abelard and Heloise, and of course, the well decorated memorial to Jim Morrison. (Then I could not get the song “Riders on the Storm” out of my head. Curse you Jim Morrison.) Katie & I wandered into the historic Jewish section of the cemetery and found the crypt of the Famille Brandon, so that made us wonder if we don’t have a Jewish line. Then we heard bells ringing, like the school bell we rang at the end of recess at Woodside School. It was 5:45 and the cemetery was closing and we couldn’t find Susie. Finally had to leave, wandered to the main gate with hope we’d find her, and there she was. Took the metro to near Cite in hopes we could find a boat ride on the Seine, but no luck at that time of day (6:30). So we took the steps down to the river’s edge and wandered west along the river bank, saw barges and boats and finally came up to street level at the Pont des Artes, Bridge of the Arts. We were right by the School of the Arts. Tried to find a cafe to rest our weary feet (we’d walked 5.5 miles by then) and get some Cokes and coffee. Decided to go home as it was 8:15 by then. Got back to the street of the market and did some shopping at the store for cream, Wasa crackers, veggies, wine, & coookies. Home by 9 or so. Now it’s 11 pm and we need to get to bed.

The plan for Sunday: get early to the Gare for the rail passes, then to the Musee d’Orsay, then perhaps a boat ride. Let’s see if we can get that plan to work. But for tonight, Bon Soir

I am here

I am here...at last! After Scotty and her friend Ange took me to Rockford to catch the bus to O'Hare, where I waited for a couple hours for take off, then, up, up and away! The plane ride was 8 1/2 hours but went fast. Then, after showing my passport and picking up my luggage I went out to a big throng of people waiting for the arrivals and saw Neecie's smiling face! What a nice welcome! Katie and Neece walked me through the airport ( or I would still be there, lost!) got on the train and was serenaded by a gypsy playing accordian ( THOSE WERE THE DAYS). We got off in our neighborhood and walked down the market street to get to our (Paris!) apartment, stopped and bought fresh veggies and fruit. Had to cut short our shopping as I had to go to the apartment ( bathroom). I unpacked and Neece made me a nice huge salad. I think the jet lag is trying to catch up to me as this is getting harder to think and type, both! Will post more after rested. Amor,

#13 (Susie/Ange)

Susie/Ange Arrive (that's French)

We got up TDE (too darn early) to meet Susie at the airport Charles de Gaulle. Afraid that we would oversleep, we had Jerry call us on Skype from the US to wake us up at 0600...which was only 9PM his time. Off to the RER train station and 17E and 35 minutes later we were at the airport. Then we walked about a mile through the Terminal. I don't know who designed that airport but it is made for France's third favorite hobby, WALKING ( The first is eating with drinking a close second)

Waited what seemed like a long time but really wasn't and there she was, coming through the doors with that great smile!

Middle Ages

Middle Age(s) May 19th

A medieval day today. We tried to get started early. That means I got out of bed at 6 am and putzed, and Katie got up at 8:30. (Remember, she is ‘elderly’) We left the apartment at 10:30 and Katie wanted to try a bakery that was labeled an “Austrian” patisserie, so we did. Katie ordered a Swiss Brioche and coffee with cream; I wanted a croissant but they were out so some strawberry pastry sufficed. We made our way to the subway and emerged at the start of the city in the 5th century (?): the island called Cite on which some tribe that called themselves the Parisii built a village, later re-named Paris. So we went where it all began. It’s where Notre Dame is also located, but as well, several other buildings important to the French, among which is the original palace of the early kings (before they abandoned such a low rent district for the Louvre and another palace in Vincennes Forest). In the 13th century a holy French king by the name of Louis (Louis IX to be precise, known in Missouri as Saint Louis) decided to buy the Crown of Thorns from the emperor of Constantinople. (I absolutely love these stories.) So he needed a chapel fit to house these relics of Jesus’ passion & death, and he had built a stunning church that is simply known as the Holy Chapel--Sainte Chapelle. It is high Gothic architecture at its finest, they say. I say, it’s easy to see what the values of that time were, because on entering the chapel, one cannot help but look heavenward. It just soars up and up and up. The stained glass windows are a strong part of this sense of awe, and these windows are the heart of this chapel. Seventy percent of the windows are the same as they were in 1248. On a bright sunny day such as today, the windows are beyond description. I can give the history lesson, but the visual is beyond my capacity to say. Does that confession help? Hope you will look at Katie’s video to get a sense of it. The best part of the windows, in the apse, was undergoing restoration , but even then, it was terrific. What a different time. Our tall buildings are about worship too, but I think it’s money mostly.

The chapel is attached to the former palace, which is now the Palace of Justice, or the law courts. We decided to explore that too. Found a courtroom that no one objected to when we entered, so we took a picture. The Gendarme shook his head in what we took as tolerant disbelief, so we stayed for the Judge to enter ( a young woman) and to decide several cases, which did not take long. It was cool to watch the lawyers dressed in distinguishing robes (some wearing blue jeans underneath) march purposefully through the halls. Finally we adjourned to the toilette, and found it was shared by men and women alike, a unique experience but one I have at home everyday.

Hungry yet? We were, and we wanted lunch before the next plunge into the Middle Ages, a visit to the Cluny, the Museum of the Middle Age. We wandered the streets around that structure (near the Sorbonne) and found plenty of bookstores and finally settled on a cafe where we could get a salad and an Orangina. Katie got her greens with fish: tuna, anchovy, a big shrimp or Longostino, and cod. I got mine with serrano ham, shaved, cheese, cucumber chucks, olive, tomato and peppers. So refreshing, we just gobbled it up.

Then on to the Cluny and its treasures: the six tapestries depicting the Lady and the Unicorn. The Cluny is next to some Roman baths I think, but the museum itself is part of an old Abbey. Lots of other treasures there but the tapestries are the most impressive.

We felt old and tired after looking at those thousand year old things, so we made our way to the crowded metro and shuffled home. Our market street was filled with life: old ladies with canes, boys on scooters, businessmen, young women with high heels and cigarettes, thirty-somethings pushing strollers, a priest carrying his bread and groceries. We felt like we were home before we got there, and bought our daily bread in the form of a baguette, which we tucked under our arm and climbed the steps to our rooms. Another great day in the city that knows how to be comfortable.

Charity for all

There are beggars on the streets of Paris..not many and they don't accost you. Usually they are just sitting on the sidewalk close by the building, sometimes accompanied by a dog; the other day there was a man with two cats sleeping comfortably on his pile of clothing. There is usually a hat or a piece of cloth in front of them to deposit your offering of coins. Neecie and I usually check our pockets and if we have some small coins we contribute those.

Yesterday in the near the Cluny and San Michel we came upon a man kneeling in the middle of the sidewalk with a sign that said

"Je faim" (I am hungry). Neecie, being a compassionate soul, searched her purse for one of the snack bars that we have carried. She came up with a South Beach Diet bar and dropped it into the man's cap that lay on the sidewalk in front of him. he quickly dropped his pose of supplication, reached down, picked up the bar and just as quickly pitched it toward the street. I could almost hear him say " Bah! Phooey". Guess he wasn't so hungry after all.

Which makes one consider whether it is still a gift if it is scorned and rejected in such a contemptuous fashion?

And on second thought, with all of the wonderful foods in Paris why would anyone, even a beggar, want to eat a diet food bar?

#7 Katie

Le Marais

May 18: Today was a slow day. We rose late, exhausted by our 6.5 mile trek yesterday. Spent quite awhile trying to figure out the washing machine (it’s supposed to wash and dry the clothes in the same machine), showering, cleaning, determining a shopping list because of the pressing need for coffee and toilet paper, two under-rated necessities of modern life. It was almost 2 by the time we left, deciding to walk down Blvd. St. Jacques to a working man’s restaurant near Place d’Italie, but we arrived too late (3 pm)and they had stopped serving. So we picked up the Metro and went to Le Marais, got off at St. Paul. Headed up Rue Parvee to Rue des Rosier. This is the heart of the Jewish quarter of Paris and we saw many men in dark overcoats with facial hair and skull caps. By the time we got to Rue des Rosiers and wandered toward the restaurant we’d selected, we weren’t surprised by the sight of a dozen young rabbinical students in dark coats and brimmed hats. One asked if we were Jewish because there was a Jewish holiday the next day and they were inviting Jewish tourists to the various temples in Paris. We said we weren’t Jewish, but one had a boyfriend who was and did that count? A group of 4 of them were goofing around in high spirits like young men almost anywhere and we asked them to sing for us. So they did. It was quite enchanting and I thought Katie got it on video but she did not, so I guess it will have to be a memory accessed by words. The street was narrow and cobblestone and seemed inaccessible by cars, tho I won’t swear to that. It was at a street corner and there were 2 restaurants across the street from each other and a deli/grocer that specialized in eastern european Jewish foods--latkes, etc. The restaurants were the ones we had selected to find so we chose one (Mi Va Mi) and had the best stuffed pita sandwiches, chased by an Israeli beer called Macabee. Katie’s pita was a Chawarma--turkey, beggies, sauce--and mine was a Kefta--little spiced beef burgers, veggies, and sauce. Mucho deliciosos. Wandered around the quarter. Found a shop that sold purses and fountain pens--what a combination. Bought a fountain pen (apologies to my daughter who would have bought a purse) that is beautiful and elegant and what is writing these words this moment. Wandered over to St. Paul’s church and looked inside. Then we went to Rue Charlemagne to see where Jenn & Larry would stay. Took the metro home, went to MonoPrix (supermarket) for the necessary coffee and t.p. and wine, then through the market street with a stop at the fruit vendor for some clementines and strawberries, and finally to the Greek deli, where we purchased dinner: a salad of feta cheese chunks, cukes, tomato, olives, onion; tabouli, hummous, kefta and pita bread. We walked a little faster to get home in anticipation of such a meal. Really good. We’re still trying to figure out how to get the washing machine to dry our clothes, hoping we don’t have to drape underwear around the apartment. I’ll think about that tomorrow, said Scarlet.

Triumphal day

The delayed blog from Monday May 17:

Today there were several memorable moments. We decided to go to the Apple Store on Rue de Rivoli, in the new shopping center next to the Louvre. They don’t have the iPad but did have wifi and my iPad immediately connected. Several folks in the store were quite intrigued with it and I felt like the popular kid at a school for tinkerers. Then we walked up to the Place de la Concorde--so named because (and after) they were no longer beheading people there with the guillotine after the Revolution. We caught our first sight of the Eiffel Tower at that point, along with catching the metro to the Arc de Triomphe where we took the requisite pictures and I noted again the money & lives we spend on war and its glorification. In this light mood, we began our march down the Champs Elysees. Neither one being shoppers, we mainly window shopped, tho I was quite smitten by my first glimpse of an all-electric vehicle--a Citroen Zero. We got a picture. Not due out til December, no known price, no info on batteries nor estimated life time.

Back on the street Memorable Moment #2 (will tell about #1 in a bit) happened: two young women stopped me suddenly with this exclamation: OMYGOD, are you a Bearcat? from Northwest MO State? (I was wearing a NW jacket.) Yes, I said. They threw their arms around me with the enthusiasm usually reserved for winning a national championship. Katie took our pictures with the Arc de Triomphe in the background. One was named Katie and the other Nicole and they had been soccer players in 1998. Amazingly small world.

Memorable moment #1 was in the metro, a big stop with numerous transfer points. A musical octet of eastern European men were playing rousing songs and entertaining a crowd. Buskers beyond belief. There were 3 accordians, a bass, a violin, 2 guitars, a balalaika? and 1 trombone. We’ll upload the video to Katie’s Facebook page, which seems to be where we’re putting the photos that match this blog. (Facebook: Katie Bochum).

After our walk down the Champs Elysees, we decided to move off that busy street to the Rue St. Honoree. Now THAT was the street of wealthy shops, embassies, ritz and power! much less crowded than the Champs Elysees. Police everywhere. The ministry of the interior. The President’s house--Sarcozy. The great moment there was was wandering into Sotheby’s auction house which was preparing to auction from the collection of Vollard the bookseller. Astounding to see books illustrated by Miro, and St. Exupery, and a collection of the works of Augustine with annotations by a mystery scholar close to Martin Luther.

We wanted to eat dinner in a restaurant run by church ladies, in the basement of the Church of the Madeleine but by the time we got there, it was closed. (only open for lunch) We met the same failure at the next (and nearby) church restaurant: a Polish language church and a Polish restaurant that was only open Thurs. through Sat. Did catch the tail end of a Polish Mass tho. Hope that counts for attendance on a Monday, which I believe is an extra credit opportunity for Catholics. We journeyed home tired from walking 6.5 miles and ate a good meal at a restaurant a block from our apartment. There was yummy gazpacho and a main plate of salmon on what we thought was shredded zucchini and onion, and a light dessert of a fruit thing that I can’t describe. Home with the intention of going straight to bed (by then it was 8:30), but excitement still prevailed when we found my iPad connected to the wifi in our apartment. That meant several hours downloading updates.

Tomorrow: shopping, cleaning, figuring out the washing machine. Bon Nuit.

new post coming in the morning

Last night we were just exhausted from a long day so we didn't post. Neecie wrote it out as well as for today but will post it in the morning. I have changed a few things on our photos...we take so many pictures of food that we started a new album called 'Eating our way through Paris" ...you can find it here but you will have to copy and paste as it doesn't highlight for some reason.

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=172673&id=574448953&l=b0d81bb2a5

I don't have the skills that Neecie has for writing but I can tell you this....it is a beautiful city...people have been so friendly and so kind to us. Neecie speaks some french..I don't even try and they are just so gracious and helpful. I don't know how that gossip about rudeness ever started because I have found them only friendly and polite. They are in a hurry on the street but they don't push or shove. Even on a crowded Metro they are careful of your space and apologize if they bump you or step on your foot.

The Metro is fantastic. We have never had to wait more than 3-5 minutes for a train and are able to get all over on them. We will take a train out to the airport to get Susie when she comes in on Friday. It will be so exciting when she is here and we can share this wonderful adventure. What memories we are making.

We had some bad news from the US today. Our oldest brother Richard is in the hospital with pneumonia and sepsis. His kidneys are not too good and maybe failing. So if you are reading our blog please put him in your prayers.

Facebook link

Try this link to Facebook. It is supposed to be a public link so that our photos can be viewed. haven't figured out how to post them with this blog yet. http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=172446&id=574448953&l=835d08f002

Tiring day today. Neecie will write about it in the morning. Walked over 6 miles and my legs are ACHING!. But still, another beautiful day here in Paris. To bed now and will try again in AM to add photos and an update.

Sunday afternoon in the park

Sunday--May 16

Had the most wonderful day. Rose late, @ 9:30 or 10, made the requisite coffee, went down to the bakery for croissants and bread, then to the little nearby store where I bought jam--Bonne Maman 4 berry, yummy. Home to share my stash with Katie (Number 10 writing here) and we ooohed and aaahed our way through croissants and bread & cheese. Then we took a few quiet hours to ourselves, tho we talked to Ange(Number 13) on Skype a good bit, and I took a shower, but it was quiet with each working on her own things. Researched where there might be an English language bookstore near where we were going. The day was planned to spend Sunday as many Parisians do: go to the Luxembourg Gardens. We found a bookstore was near there--The Village Voice--but first walked down Rue Daguerre and took pictures of pastries and bread in the shop windows. Then we strolled down Ave Denfert-Rochereau toward the gardens. What a day! The sun was out and so were the people. Lying on the grass, picnicking, sleeping, lovers and children and mamas. We strolled down the central walk toward the palace at the other end of the park, and stopped in the center at the pool, full of sailboats, with children running after their boats with long sticks to push them away from the wall if they got stuck, and mammas and grand-peres running after the kids. It was lovely. We took pictures of a boy with his boat fresh out of the water and his brother in a Spiderman costume rushed to get into the picture too. More pictures followed of other kids engaged in all sorts of play: kicking balls, swinging at badminton birdies or tennis balls, climbing on a huge pyramid jungle jim, swinging, spinning, boxing, playing in sandboxes--so wonderful. Two nuns walking down a path caught my eye. Then an area where men were playing bocce ball (they call it petanque here) and using a tape to measure distance to determine the winner. Another sunny area we found the chess players with their focused stares, timers, and onlookers. It was delightful to see people (young and old) engaging each other, soaking in the sun and the various activities of being alive together. It felt like I’d been to church in some way; we left the gardens with glad hearts and hope for the week to come.

As we began wending our way through the rabbit warren of streets that would hopefully lead us to the english language bookstore, we happened upon the church of St. Sulpice. It had been mentioned in The Da Vinci Code, and Katie announced she was going in, so I dutifully followed. She is old, after all, and I could not leave her. :-0

Thank goodness I did not.

The church has stunning acoustics apparently (I can now testify that is true) and hosts many concerts. We walked into a symphony orchestra rehearsing St. Saens Symphony no. 3 for a concert later in the evening. It was stunning, filling the church with sound as lush and deep as a waterfall. We wandered around in silence, discovered chapel after chapel with paintings, sculpture, stained glass and the symphonic crashing of percussion following soaring strains of wind. Took pictures of the Chapel of St. Genevieve (patron saint of Paris).

Leaving the church we were only 6 blocks from the bookstore, but it was closed by then, so we resolved to return another day. It was 6:30 by then and the last we’d eaten was the buttery croissants and jam, so we made our way to Le Procope, built in 1686, host restaurant to Voltaire, Rousseau, Diderot in pre-French revolution times, and site of many citizen rebel wearers of the red cap. The meal was decent but not revolutionary. Katie had vicchysoise soup and chicken & potatoes. I had trout amandine and English potatoes (peeled and boiled), and a glass of wine--a bit vinegary--that I shared with K. After our meal and wandering a bit through the restaurant’s many rooms, we took the Metro home, for Katie’s hip was aching--we had walked 5 miles that day. Walked down Rue Daguerre and found a small grocery store where we bought cookies: dark chocolate on a soft madeleine style cookie flavored with orange. So the day has ended. Talked with Paul and Nicole on Skype, wrote in this notebook, and now it’s midnight. Another grand day in the city of light.

The first day Part 3

this is #7 (Katie)...Neecie forgot to say that the wonderful little restaurant with the fabulous food had unique decor. The walls had the usual notes of money from varied countries but most interesting were the bras and panties hung on the walls, some autographed, black, white, nude, beige, lacy, push-up, padded; every kind of bra that one can think of. And the panties were as varied in style and color but more so in their size; some miniscule and some nearly 'old lady panties'. Our waitress did not know how the custom began of leaving your underwear in a restaurant. I thought, perhaps, it was a take off of 'the shirt off

my back' in praise of one of the finest meals I have ever eaten!

The First Day, part 2

Sat eve: I’ll add to this blog as Number 10, my numerical place in the family. Katie is the lucky 7 and Susie the luckiest of all at 13. We did not visit the chapel of Ste Chapelle today, altho by the time we got to the boulevard St. Michel, and took pictures of St. Michael driving Lucifer out of heaven, the sun was still bright and we could see the spire of that lovely chapel about two blocks away. Instead we chose to walk a long block along the river and peek in at the booksellers and map sellers in their wooden stands along the way until we got to the bridge that crossed over to Notre Dame. There was quite a throng in front of the cathedral and several tents set up celebrating the festival of bread. We spent about an hour in Notre Dame, gawking at the rose windows, listening to a woman sing at a baptism, soaking up the sense of time stretching back to the middle ages. Afterward, we made our way back across the bridge to the venerable bookstore, Shakespeare & Co, where I bought The Poisonwood Bible, a book I’d been wanting to read for 10 years. Then we retired to a cafe for a coffee and a trip to the toilette and to map out a plan for dinner. I had cut and pasted a series of restaurant reviews from reader’s comments in the NYTimes and there was a little restaurant near the Sorbonne that had glowing reviews. So we figured out how to walk there (up the Blvd St. Mich, down the Rue des Ecoles, up the hill to the Polytechnic university, past a dizzy array of ethnic restaurants: Indian, Tai, Provencal, Russian, Swiss, Greek, Japanese, to a small narrow street where we found it: Les Fetes Galantes. What a find. What a jewel of a dinner. A tiny room about 12 x 15 at the most, with 8-10 tables and a harried waitress. For starters we ordered 6 escargots and a tart of 3 cheeses with Roquefort sauce. And a small pitcher of red wine. It was heavenly, especially the tart. Then came the main dish: Katie had 2 lamb chops and I had a veal cutlet with Roquefort sauce. Also a vegetable medley of 4 beans, mostly mashed, each with a different herbed flavor, and homemade potato chips that were soft, not crispy, and light. Dessert was chocolate mousse with strawberry sauce and mint, and a profiterole with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce. It took 2 hours to eat and we were well satisfied when finished, but not stuffed. It was 9:30 and still light outside so we thought we could walk home in half an hour. That was a slight underestimation as we did not get home until 10. A pot of chamomile tea and a little troubleshooting on Skype with Jerry and his grandson Travis and we feel like we’ve got our problems with the blog page solved. Hopefully our long day of walking and my new novel will put me into a sounder sleep than last night. Until tomorrow, I remain as faithful as number 10 can be. a toute a l’heure!

Test, Test, Test!!!! Trying to figure out how to make an entry on our blog. For some reason it all comes out in French....Neecie says it is because there is an alien living in our computer, an alternative life form, that takes over. Hope we figure it out so we can keep ourselves and our faithful followers up to date.

Sat. May 15--The day dawns bright and clear and we raise the shades on the casement windows to let in the sun. “Dawn” isn’t exactly the time of our rising this morning (it’s after 12 now) but we have been up for a few hours now, made our coffee, and breakfasted on some bread and cheese (our second priority, after computer hook up) that we bought in the fromagerie (cheese store) yesterday. Now we plan our day. Take the metro to St. Michel, walk to Notre Dame, visit the English bookstore, Shakespeare and Company, and stroll along the Seine. It’s so sunny we might also visit Ste. Chappelle, the medieval church with the sparkling stained glass windows.I’m supposed to be writing this blog, but Katie keeps coming and talking to me. Do you suppose she doesn’t know that when one is writing, one is totally focused and interruptions are not tolerated well? I can’t work under these conditions. Will write more at the end of the day.

2 days to go.....but who is counting?

Sick all weekend....didn't get much done. Felt some better yesterday and got a little more organized. Jerry comes up today from Seal Beach and will drop me off at the airport on Thursday. Wish I felt better..no pep.

less than a week to go

Trying to set up a blog so that we can share our travel and adventures with....well, whomever might have an interest in 3 (older) ladies traveling to France and Switzerland.

Have to write down the name of the blog or I will forget it. (First clue that I am the oldest of the sisters....forgetting).

http://katieneeceandangesue.blogspot.com/

Hope we can add to this each day or so. Neecie is a published author so she probably will be doing the majority of the blogging.

Six days to go before Neecie and I leave for France and of course the Icelandic volcano is ‘burping’ a big burp! Hope it doesn’t interfere with our flights but if it does, please let it be after we all get there....would we care if we were marooned in France for an extra week? I don’t think so...as long as the charge card holds out and we have a place to lay our heads at night (and a shower every other day or so).

I am coming down with a cold or flu today. Haven’t been sick for over 4 years and wouldn’t you know it would catch me now right before I leave? Ah well, not the end of the world and maybe I will feel better in the morning.

Katie (the elder)

Euros, volcano and Greece

The Euro keeps falling and the volcano keeps belching....Greece is having riots and the world’s economies are teetering....is this a good time to go to Europe for a month?

YES, YES it is!!!

5/5 Worked today but that will be the last time until I get back in June. Haircut and perm turned out fine, hope it will be easy to care for while in France.

Margy had her ankle replacement today and did Ok. I talked to her a little bit and she sounded good. I’m relieved. I was concerned for her but for nought.

Wouldn’t you know it? Bought my Euros last week through Chase bank. Rate quoted online was $1.32/1 euro but I had to pay 1.39 probably because I am a small purchaser versus a big bank or company.

And today...the euro is falling due to Greece’s financial trouble and it is $1.28 today. So I will be spending more expensive euro in France than Neecie and

Susie will be spending cheaper ones. Boo-hoo!