Sunday, May 23, 2010

Ange, Art, Etc May 21-22




Today we are up early and getting ready for a trip all the way across Paris, back to the Gare de Lyon for train tickets to Switzerland. Then plan on Musee d’Orsay and a Seine river boat ride and maybe Notre Dame as well. Will be a busy day. Neecie says we walked six miles yesterday. (Number 7--Katie)


We are rapidly losing time it seems. Getting this blog written and posted each day gets tricky sometimes. Thanks for being patient. A quick recap: Thursday Katie and I went to the Louvre, out for lunch to the Polish restaurant in the catacombs of a church nearby where we had tried earlier in the week with no luck. Good meal of Kielbaska and sauerkraut (very different from that of the US). Then back to the Louvre where Katie dragged me from room to room as I slowly collapsed into a heap of art-drugged (and the Polish beer from lunch) somnolescence.

Friday: We rose early and at 7 am took the suburban train to CDG airport to meet Ange. Had to walk a good distance from the train station into the AA arrivals gate, greeting Ange with smiles and hugs all around. After a brief stop at a cafe for 2 coffees and a tea ($11.00 imagine!) we walked back to the train and returned to the city, taking 4 hours. (Ange’s one way train ticket cost the same as the 2 coffees and the tea--but I’m not complaining mind you.) The walk down the market street produced more fresh fruit and veggies for Ange. In the apartment, we made her a fresh salad, unpacked, then finally let her lie down @ 2 pm. Katie and I went out, looked in a hardware store at a bag/purse to hold my iPad, got a Diet Coke at the supermarket, and walked about 3/4 mile to Le Boutique, a shop next to a monastery that sold goods handmade by monastic orders all around France. Katie was enthralled with the hand and machine sewing and the lace and baskets and one special room that held antique goods: lace collars, chemises, aprons, underwear (those were coton). Spent at least an hour there. Home again. Coffee, coke & beer at the sidewalk cafe across the street from the apt. Later dinner at our local favorite restaurant--Bistro of the Penguins, with yummy gazpacho and a quiche extreme. Bed at 9:30.

Saturday: The best laid plans go awry at times. Began the day going to Montparnasse train station to buy the rail passes and reserve the train to Switzerland, but ran amok. They did not sell those passes there and said only at Gare du Lyon, and take the #91 bus there. So we did, 30 minute trip. Wandered to the train ticket place, faced long lines, decided we try the tourism office, got sent to train information, which sent us back to the long lines. Stood in line 1 hour, got to the window, asked about the rail passes and the woman said she needed to see our passports. Two of the three of us had ours, but Ange had left hers behind. We turned away, empty handed, with the resolve to return in the morning and get what we wanted come what may. By then it was 2:30 and we were on the other side of Paris from our intended goal of the Musee d’Orsay (impressionist paintings), but we were close to Pere Lachaise Cemetery, so we decided to change plans and go there. Found a cafe across the street from the walled cemetery for lunch. Ange got a salad Nicoise that was admired by all: greens, tuna, anchovies (her first time to try anchovies) green beans, olives, hard boiled eggs. Katie and I got ordinary things, omelet, sandwich.

After that lunch (we would not eat dinner) we entered the cemetery, in search primarily of 2 graves: Jim Morrison and Abelard & Heloise. The cemetery is Stuffed with tombs and crypts. Many well known folks are buried there, including these: Collette, Rossini (Figaro, Figaro, Figaro... I sang and Katie shrank away), Bellini, Chopin, Gericault, the beautiful crypt/memorial to the star-crossed lovers of the Middle Ages, Abelard and Heloise, and of course, the well decorated memorial to Jim Morrison. (Then I could not get the song “Riders on the Storm” out of my head. Curse you Jim Morrison.) Katie & I wandered into the historic Jewish section of the cemetery and found the crypt of the Famille Brandon, so that made us wonder if we don’t have a Jewish line. Then we heard bells ringing, like the school bell we rang at the end of recess at Woodside School. It was 5:45 and the cemetery was closing and we couldn’t find Susie. Finally had to leave, wandered to the main gate with hope we’d find her, and there she was. Took the metro to near Cite in hopes we could find a boat ride on the Seine, but no luck at that time of day (6:30). So we took the steps down to the river’s edge and wandered west along the river bank, saw barges and boats and finally came up to street level at the Pont des Artes, Bridge of the Arts. We were right by the School of the Arts. Tried to find a cafe to rest our weary feet (we’d walked 5.5 miles by then) and get some Cokes and coffee. Decided to go home as it was 8:15 by then. Got back to the street of the market and did some shopping at the store for cream, Wasa crackers, veggies, wine, & coookies. Home by 9 or so. Now it’s 11 pm and we need to get to bed.

The plan for Sunday: get early to the Gare for the rail passes, then to the Musee d’Orsay, then perhaps a boat ride. Let’s see if we can get that plan to work. But for tonight, Bon Soir

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